JHF Portal Axle Bible

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Expanding off my previous post in which I used a short ¾" pipe to lock the rotor and a piece of ½" PVC as a handle, I have built a pretty functional and inexpensive handle for maneuvering portal boxes. I call it the "portable portal buddy". Haha

Here's what I used:
¾" black pipe (galvanized is obviously available too) - (1) 4" section, (1) 6" section, (1) 10" section, (2) 90° female elbows.
A PVC or steel cap can be added onto the open end of the long piece as a bolster \ safety if desired too.
Ends up around $20 usually.

6" goes into the portal and locks the rotor, elbow, 4" vertical, elbow, 10" goes back towards the axle C.
**Sections may need to be longer or shorter to accommodate different rotors and different stud lengths**

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woody said:
Portal 1480 Shaft Lengths
For anyone building housings or wanting to upgrade to 1480 u-joint shafts, these are the shaft lengths you'll need, measured tip of shaft to center of joint. The offset is measured from the center of the housing, not center of the pinion. For reference, all of our moon buggy housings are 65" wide with an 8" offset. Our trail car housings are 70" with a 10" offset. When building housings for customers, we've tried to standardize everything to the dimensions listed below.

** For 9” axles with a Detroit/Grizzly/Spool add .5” **

Toyota 8"/8.4" -
65" x 8" offset 15.4" 31.4"
70" x 8" offset 17.9" 33.9"
70" x 10" offset 15.9" 35.9"
70" Centered 25.9" 25.9"

Ford 9" Driver Front -
65" x 8" offset 14.2" 32.5"
70" x 8" offset 16.7" 35"
70" x 10" offset 14.7" 37"
70" Centered 24.7" 27"

Ford 9" Passenger Front -
65" x 8" offset 16.5" 30.2"
70" x 8" offset 19" 32.7"
70" x 10" offset 17" 34.7"
70" Centered 24.7" 27"
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Hey Woody, do you see any advantage/disadvantage to doing (rear engine moon buggy) a 9" 70x10 passenger front- for front axle, and a 70x8 driver front- for rear axle, adjusted minimally (basically a 10.3" offset on the passenger front-or 7.7" on the pass rear) to have the same length shafts? Outside of the aggravation of building different upper link mounts.
 
CutlerFab said:
Hey Woody, do you see any advantage/disadvantage to doing (rear engine moon buggy) a 9" 70x10 passenger front- for front axle, and a 70x8 driver front- for rear axle, adjusted minimally (basically a 10.3" offset on the passenger front-or 7.7" on the pass rear) to have the same length shafts? Outside of the aggravation of building different upper link mounts.
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I know Jesse had a passenger offset front and a driver offset rear, it does help when the engine is angled in the chassis for drive line angles.

My next 2-seat will be passenger offset front (like the current) but centered rear. I think.....
 
woody said:
I know Jesse had a passenger offset front and a driver offset rear, it does help when the engine is angled in the chassis for drive line angles.

My next 2-seat will be passenger offset front (like the current) but centered rear. I think.....
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sorry, I think the offset gets confusing when talking rear steer axle. But in my original question, in a rear engine car, both axles would be passenger drop, so I was referring to running two different offsets to maintain matching length inners respectively for both axles, by cheating the 8' and 10" offsets .3".
 
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Right, mostly wondering if the axles are strong enough to reliably handle a larger tire size?
 
I bought the high strength JHF portal gears I built this stand to remove the boxes off the car then transfer them to a stand to lay them flat for disassembly used a 2” receiver on the bottom to fit the jack and mobile vice stand.
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It was a very simple process. Just note that the axle lock washer has tabs that should be bent into the two groves of the lock nut. As you tighten this nut two tabs will fit on one side. I used a punch to tighten this nut to remove bearing play-not too tight. You can remove that big plug to tap out the upper gear if the bearings are snug. I also added the steering strengthener like Woody and Wong.. That sounds like a restaurant 😂😂
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Can anyone confirm that the internal splines on the upper gear for both the 10K and 12K are 32 spline? I think they are but can't 100% confirm that. Also is that the same pressure angle as the 32 spline on a T-case output?
 
Can I ask a dumb question? Cause I can’t seem to wrap my brain around this. If you run a rear engine setup do you run high pinion stuff or do you have to flip load pinions still?
 
Front Engine = Flip Diffs
Rear Engine = Standard Orientation Diffs

Front Engine from front view, engine and driveshafts (in forward) spin clockwise, this needs diffs flipped so the 2 gear portal output is correct

Rear Engine from front view, engine and driveshafts spin counterclockwise
 
woody said:
Brakes

JHF portals: standard with Wilwood Forged Dynalite calipers and Wilwood PolyMatrix E 5E-6096K pads. Rotors are laser cut steel

Wilwood Disc Brakes

Part No: 120-6818, calipers, dynapro, dynapro 6, big brake, dynalite, dynalite pro, forged dynalite, d52, superlite, sl6, sl4, tc6r, promatrix, w6ar, rotors
www.wilwood.com www.wilwood.com

JHF Trail chassis: standard is a single 1-1/8" Wilwood Compact Remote Master Cylinder (mounted under the drivers seat)

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Compact Remote Master Cylinder

Wilwood makes a wide assortment of small, lightweight master cylinders that are suitable for high performance street and racing applications and they are available in a variety of bore sizes. This page displays Master Cylinders: Compact Remote Master Cylinder
www.wilwood.com www.wilwood.com
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Was talking to a supplier and apparently wilwood has discontinued the above calipers and replaced them with PN 120-13843

Has anyone used these new ones?
 
Is there any info on drilling out the ball joint holes on hmmvee boxes.. 7/8"s I believe? Just use a reamer? Do they need line bored or can you pull it off just reaming by hand?
 
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